DIY Network

The Fine Art of Hollowing a Bowl The Fine Art of Hollowing a Bowl From "Woodturning Techniques" episode DWTT-111

Figure A

The tail stock is removed, and the gouge is used to drill a hole in the center of the bowl blank. The walls are left fairly thick, allowing them to be re-turned when the wet wood has dried. The depth of the walls depends on the diameter of the piece (figure A).

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	Figure B
	Figure C

Steps:

1. A bowl gouge is used to start the hollowing process. The tool first goes in flat, and rolls on it's side to level the surface (figure B). Do not turn the tool up or it will grab onto the wood.

2. To begin hollowing, the tool must again be carefully oriented, keeping the bevel in contact with the wood (figure C). This is a somewhat awkward because the tail stock is in the way, but it is very important to make several tool passes this way. As the center of the blank is reached, the tool is pulled up to keep the tool corner from hitting the wood and jerking the tool. If it feels like too much wood is being cut, pulling the handle back toward the body lessens the depth of the cut.

Figure D

3. Next, the tail stock is replaced by the tool rest, and the bowl gouge drills a hole in the center of the blank to establish the depth of the bowl (figure D).

4. Because this is green wood that will dry and need to be trued, the bowl walls are kept fairly thick. The depth of the walls depends on the diameter of the piece -- this piece is about 7 inches, so the walls should be kept 5/8" to 3/4" thick.

5. When starting to hollow the walls, the tool bevel has to rub against the wood, for a firm, controlled cut and, to keep the tool from bouncing. The tool handle comes around, removing a consistent amount of wood (figure E).

6. As the bowl is hollowed, the tool must be slowed down as it gets closer to the center because the wood at the center isn't turning as fast as the walls are turning.

7. When the walls are turned to a consistent thickness, which will allow them to dry evenly, the bowl is removed from the lathe and set aside to dry (figure F).

Figure E

Figure F