Steps1. With the bevel perpendicular to the surface (figure A) and the handle level with the tool rest (figure B), turn the wall of the bowl to a thickness of 1/4".
2. Switch to a scraper with an adjustable tip to hollow out the bottom of the bowl. The force of the tip must be in line with the handle to turn easily (figure C). Using very little pressure, let the scraper move smoothly back and forth over the interior surface of the bowl.
3. Shape the interior of the bowl to match the curve on the outside.
4. Attach the top of the bowl to the base with instant glue (figure D). If carpenter's glue is used, let the piece dry overnight.
5. Place the tail stock at the back of the top section and turn until smooth, making light cuts with the bowl gouge (figure E).
6. Since different types of wood and different grain directions are being crossed, keep the tool moving slowly; if you move too fast, the tool can't remove the harder fibers. The sounds the wood makes as the tool passes over gives the turner an indication of how the wood is turning; rough, rattling, splintery sounds indicate the tool is moving too fast over the surface of the wood.
7. To hollow the new layers of wood, the tool rest needs to be low enough for the center of the tool to come on center on the blank. As you drill further into the wood, the handle will raise up, pushing forward to keep the cutting edge at the correct angle.
8. Establish the thickness of the rim by eye. To hollow around the inside curve, switch back to the scraper. It's hard to see inside the piece; it must be hollowed by touch and feel.