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Shoulders, Sleeves and Side Seams

From "Sew Much More"
episode SMM-221F

Figure A

Figure B

Make a chalk mark at the point where the sleeve will begin, and start stitching there.

The finished underarm and side seam.

To finish the ends of a row of serging, apply a drop of glue to the corner, let dry and then trim the threads at the glued point.

Constructing the top is beautifully simple, thanks to its modular design. In no time you'll have a finished garment -- and you'll be ready to start on another!

Estimate shoulder-seam width needed according to the opening necessary for your head by measuring around your head and dividing by 2 (e.g., if your head measures 20" around, leave at least a 10" opening). Mark ends of neck opening on both pieces (top side of back rectangle and front top panel A).
Sew multistitch zigzag connecting stitches from back panel to front panel A on each side of neck opening for shoulder seams, making bar tacks at ends of neck opening (figure A).
At side edges, stitch short lines of staystitching across abutted panel edges (figure B). This will serve to keep panel edges right next to each other, avoiding spreading when they are serged.
Roll-hem serge all side edges from bottom of back panel side over the shoulder and down the sides of the front panels A, B, C, and D.
Fold the sleeve panel E in half, mark the center edge of the panel and pin against the shoulder seam of the panel top.
Beginning at bottom back edge, attach the sleeves to the shirt body using the multistitch zigzag connection.
Fold garment in half and stitch underarm seam, from underarm connection point of shirt out to sleeve edge.
Stitch side seam, starting at underarm connection point and stitching down to the top edge of panel D. This will create a small side vent at bottom of shirt. (Back hem is longer than front hem.)
Roll-hem serge the hem edges of each sleeve. Begin at the underarm seam and stitching all the way around, overlapping 1/2".
Roll-hem serge the back and front hems of panel top.

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