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Technique #3: Faux Corded Pintucks

From "Sew Much More"
episode SMM-219F

(Note: This technique will cause the fabric to shrink about 1/2" to 3/4" in length .)

Fabrics:

Light-blue sandwashed Essex

Lightweight batting (Hobbs Thermoa)

Cotton batiste

Sewing supplies: Sewing threads (dark, light and medium blue); Dixon washable chalk marker; grid ruler; 1-1/2" inch acrylic template (optional); front lapel pattern piece (make mirror-image copy)

Machine equipment: 3 groove pintuck foot; 3.0 #90 twin needle

Machine settings:

Pattern: Straight stitch

Stitch length: Shorten to 12-15 stitches per inch

Stitch width: 0

2nd spool holder

Steps:

(Note: When threading the upper machine, the designer prefers that each thread should be place in its own thread tension disc. First thread should be threaded through the right thread tension disc, through all guides, and then through right needle. Second thread should be threaded through left tension disc; all thread guides and then through left needle. Test stitch the settings and threads to be sure there are no looped stitches and that a raised pintuck is formed.)

Place pattern pieces onto light-blue Essex fabric allowing approximately 1" extra on all sides and 1" in between pattern pieces.

With chalk pencil, draw outline shapes and then mark seam allowances.

Using the 1-1/2" acrylic template or grid ruler, draw 1-1/2" grid on a 45-degree angle. First line should be drawn 2" from lower diagonal cutting line to create a pleasing finished effect.

When all lines have been drawn in first direction, complete grid by drawing remaining lines. Avoid having lines closer than 1/2" from seam lines.

Layer fabrics in the following order: fashion fabric (right side down), lightweight batting, cotton batiste. Smooth out all layers and secure with pins. Turn layers over and cut the two drawn shapes apart.

To stitch pintucks:

Working from center of garment to outside edge, stitch every other drawn line, in the same direction. (To clarify, stitching will begin from cutting line to cutting line.) When stitching, drawn line should be centered in middle of foot.

Return to center and complete stitching to the other edge of garment shape. (Again , stitch from the same edge -- do not change position of garment.)

Rotate garment around and complete stitching from the opposite edge on remaining drawn lines. This should keep the fabric from distorting too much out of shape. (You will have completed stitching all the lines drawn in one direction.)

Press the three layers to remove any slight waves.

Complete stitching of remaining grid lines by stitching every other line, and then rotate the piece in the opposite direction to stitch the last drawn lines.

Press the piece again to remove any fabric distortion.

Place lapel pattern on top of stitched shape to compare the drawn outline to pattern piece. If necessary, redraw the cutting lines to match pattern shape.

Cut out shape. If making the Lapel Coat, stitch front lapel to front lining according to pattern directions.

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Complete Guide to Sewing : Step-By-Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home Furnishings
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Fabric Savvy: The Essential Guide for Every Sewer
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Couture Sewing Techniques
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(January, 2001)