DIY Network

Demolition: Removing Walls Fourth in a series

advertisement

By Mark Clement

Tearing down walls is really about opening up spaces. And opening up spaces can be liberating.

Getting walls down safely and effectively rates a fair 2.0-2.5 on my Cuss-O-Meter scale (1-5, with 5 as the toughest), but you do need to move carefully and have a plan. And read the Live Load Caveat below.

Live Load Caveat
Step 1 in removing a wall is to determine if it's load-bearing. A good rule of thumb is that if the wall is toward the middle of the house and running perpendicular to the joists above, it's carrying weight — and lots of it.

Load-bearing walls spike Cuss-O-Meter to a solid 5 because removing — and replacing — a load-bearing structure needs to be done right.

Posts and headers (there are several variations that are beyond the scope of this article) must be installed to replace the wall. This isn't super-advanced carpentry, but there are enough details and heavy lifting that must be done properly or you're basically guaranteed problems.

When I remove load-bearing walls, I frame temporary support walls on either side of the wall I'm removing, adding a diagonal strut to beef them up. The "temp walls" carry the load while I remove the original wall and replace it with king studs, jack studs and a properly sized header.

I recommend pulling a permit for this project. First, you're supposed to, but second, when you submit the drawings detailing your framing, the inspector has a chance to double check you. The floor system below may need more beef or blocking; the header may need to be engineered lumber instead of solid sawn to achieve your desired span; you may need more king studs than you had planned, etc.

Prepare for Take Down
Non-load-bearing walls' main function is to house mechanicals and serve as a substrate for hanging drywall that divides the rooms — and you want that division outta there. The key is to pick them apart smart.

Site protection. Cover the floor below the wall to be demoed (both sides) with a big piece of cardboard or 1/4-inch plywood to protect the finish. Drop-cloth the rest of the room if you're worried about dust.

Power, pipes, and chases. Determine if you have to deal with electrical lines, plumbing or HVAC. Opening up a wall you've planned to move only to find a big old honkin' HVAC chase in there will, as they say, "harsh your mellow."

Take Down
If you've been reading this series, you know my mantra about smart demolition: Be careful, be smart. The goal isn't wholesale devastation. It's to leave a substrate that's as easy as possible to build from. So if your sledge-hammer arm is itching, consider overkill anti-venom. Here's a page from my demo playbook:

• Drywall/Plaster. Remove drywall or plaster to expose the studs. If only part of the wall is coming out, say for a door, cut the left and right side plumb lines. Punch a hole in the center of the wall, then wiggle the drywall back and forth; it's more likely to come off in large pieces rather than small chunks. If you're saving the ceiling, score it where it meets the wall using a utility knife; cutting the tape minimizes damage as you separate the pieces.

  Plaster comes off in what a guy I knew called "kibbles and bits." Huge clouds of fine dust happen here, too. I haul plaster in 6-mil contractor trash bags. It doesn't take much plaster in a bag to make it very heavy.
  

• Studs. When possible, I use a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade to cut nails between the bottom plate and stud bottom. This frees the stud, which I can pry free from the nails above. If I don't have room to wrangle an 8-foot stud, I cut the stud in the middle, then pry out each half.
  
• Plates. Remove the top and bottom plates. Use a recip saw with a demo blade. Usually you can break the seal between the wood and nail by prying. Sometimes it's necessary to cut the nails.

Tips
Finally here are some general pointers to help make the job easier — and safer.

• When moving materials through the house, be careful.
  
• Double-bagging plaster isn't a bad idea.
  
• Watch out for nails — both sticking out of plaster lath or remaining in studs and plates.
  
• A dust mask is a nice barrier between demo dust and your respiratory system. A long-sleeved shirt and pants are also nice for your skin.
  
• If you find wire lath under your plaster, be extra careful. This stuff makes a scalpel look like a Twinkie.

Mark Clement is a remodeler and author of The Carpenter’s Notebook and The Kid’s Carpenter’s Workbook, Fun Family Projects! Find out more at
www.TheCarpentersNotebook.com.