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  • FAQ: Carpet Repair
  • From "Ask DIY"
    episode ADI-401
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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

    Of all the surfaces in a home, the floor nearly always suffers the most abuse. From kids and pets to wet, dirty shoes -- not to mention basic day-to-day wear and tear -- flooring needs as much TLC as you can afford to give it! And that goes double for carpet, which is more prone to show signs of wear than most other flooring types.

    To help you keep your carpet in top-notch condition -- despite all the trials and tribulations it's forced to endure -- remodeling expert Sharon Hanby-Robie answers some of the most common questions about carpet care and repair.

    Q: How do I repair a cigar burn in wall-to-wall carpet?

    A: You'll need to actually cut out the burned portion (figure A) and replace it with a piece of matching carpet. When done correctly, this repair will eradicate the damaged area with minimal or no evidence of a fix.

    Materials:

    Matching carpet remnant or other matching cut-out piece
    Empty can
    Utility knife
    Heavy-duty work gloves
    Single-sided carpet tape
    Masking or painter's tape
    Marker
    Scissors

    1. If you have remnants from the installation of your carpet, it makes your job a little easier. (It's always a good idea to keep these on hand if you have the storage space.) If you don't have any remnants, you'll need to cut a small portion of carpet from the back of a closet or other out-of-the-way space to provide your replacement piece.

    2. Once you've found a suitable extra piece, position an empty can (or other container of comparable size) on the nap side and press down firmly, allowing the rim to make a clear impression in the carpet. Then protect hands with a sturdy pair of work gloves and carefully cut around the outline using a sharp utility knife.

      Note: Always exercise caution and protect hands with heavy gloves when working with any sharp tool.

    3. Next, use tape marked with an arrow (figure B) to indicate the direction of the carpet's nap on the cut-out piece. (You may have to look closely to see which direction the fibers are woven.) Then use another length of marked tape to identify the direction of the nap near the burned area of the carpet.

    4. Now you're ready to cut out the burn. Using the same can or container, press it down firmly over the burn (figure C) then carefully cut along the outline with your utility knife (figure D).

      Tip: The diameter of a standard can is a pretty good guideline for the size of a replacement piece. The goal is to keep the cut-out area (figure E) as small as possible but still allow carpet tape to be inserted into the space and laid flat beneath the carpet backing.

    5. To ensure the carpet tape doesn't work its way back through the opening, cut a length two to three inches wider than the diameter of the cut-out area. (Carpet tape is available in double-sided and single-sided versions; the single-sided type generally works best for this type of repair.)

    6. Peel the backing away from the adhesive side of the tape and carefully insert the piece into the cut-out area, smoothing it flat from below so that it sticks firmly to the carpet backing around the perimeter of the opening.

      Tip: Be patient and work carefully: handling the stickiness of the tape can be a challenge.

      For a cut-out this size, it generally works best to cover about half the space with one piece of tape (figure G) and use a second piece to cover the other half (figure H).

    7. Once the carpet tape is firmly in place, you're ready to insert your replacement piece. Turn the piece so its arrow is pointing in the same direction as the arrow near the cut-out area (figure I), then press it firmly into the opening. Apply extra pressure all around the edges of the new piece, working the fibers into the surrounding carpet.

    8. After the piece is fitted snugly into the opening, you'll likely notice that its fibers are slightly higher than those of the surrouding area; this is simply the difference between worn and unworn carpet. To even out the difference, simply lay a pair of scissors flat across the new section and carefully trim off just enough to "blend" the piece into the adjacent fibers (figure J).

    9. Finally, it's a good idea to set a heavy piece of furniture, stack of books, etc. over the repaired section for a day or two to ensure it's fully "integrated."

    Q: How can I prevent my carpet from wearing out?

    A:The answer here is simple: Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum! It's the best thing you can do for your carpet and will add years to its life.

    You'll also want to be sure you choose the best type of carpet for a particular area. Berbers (figure K) are great for family rooms and other informal spaces, while high-density cut-pile carpets are best for more formal rooms.

    For those areas where something a bit more exotic is in order, some people may opt for shag carpet, which has just recently come back in style. Got a basement to carpet? Select an economical commercial carpet for this space -- it's easy to clean and designed to stand up to extra wear and tear.

    Finally, give your carpets a regular shampoo according to the manufacturer's recommendations. This will work wonders for extending their looks and life.

    Q: Why can't I use the previous padding with my new carpet?

    A: Unfortunately, the "lifetime" warranty that came with your existing carpet pad referred to the life of the accompanying carpet, not the life of its owner! And since most carpet companies will have particular padding requirements in order to secure their warranties, it's generally best to replace your padding when you replace your carpet.

    Additionally, different carpets require different types of pads. Depending on the pile and fiber content of your carpet, basic padding made from recycled fibers (commonly known as rebond) will usually work fine. The two types shown in figure L have slightly different compositions -- the green top sample is lower-density rebond, while the second from the top is a high-density version.

    The white padding sample at the bottom of the stack (shown in the same figure) is a high-density foam sealed with a vapor barrier, which will resist stains that may seep through the carpet. Most higher-priced carpets will require this type of pad.

    Q: What's the best way to pull up old carpeting?

    A: Well, it depends on your purpose. If your goal is simply to get the old carpet out of the way, protect your hands with heavy gloves and use a sharp utility knife to cut a border around the entire area, about four or five inches away from the walls. Then just lift out the center section, pull up the remaining border of carpet and remove the underlying tack strips along the perimeter.

    If, however, you simply want to pull up a small section to check the type or condition of flooring beneath the carpet, use a small crowbar to loosen one corner of the carpet (figure M), hold it out of the way and hook the crowbar around the underlying padding. Then carefully pull the padding off the tack strips and pull it back to reveal the surface below (figure N).


    RESOURCES :
    The Carpet and Rug Institute

    Home Book: Ultimate Guide to Repairs & Improvements
    Model: 158011069X
    Author: Mike McClintock (Editor)
    Creative Homeowner Press; September 2000

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