CRAFTS Index
Baskets
Beading
Boxes
Candles
Children's Room Decor
Clay
Clothing
Dolls
Faux & Other Finishes
Flowers & Foliage
Furniture
Garden & Patio
Glass
History
Holidays
Jewelry & Accessories
Kids Crafts
Lamps & Shades
Linens & Fabrics
Memory Crafts
Metal
Natural & Homemade
Needle Arts
Organizing & Storage
Painting & Staining
Paper
Photo Projects
Quilting Techniques
Recycled Objects
Ribbons & Bows
Rubber Stamping
Scrapbooking
Special Days & Gifts
Stenciling
Storage
Tabletop Decor
Toys & Games
Walls & Floors
Wedding
Wirework
Wood & Leather
Decor
Tools & Techniques

BEST OF CRAFTS
Puttin' On the Knits
Knitty Gritty
Creative Juice
Sewing for the Home
Scrapbooking: Flowers
Scrapbooking Basics
Scrapbooking: Holidays
Scrapbooking: Vacations

SPONSOR LINKS

  • Butcher Block
  • Craft your own counter or tabletop.
    From "B. Original"
    episode DBOR-511


    PHOTO

    Build your own beautiful butcher block.
    Sturdy butcher block surfaces give a warm, natural feel to counters, tabletops or even kitchen islands. Thanks to Michele Beschen, you can have a great, custom butcher block surface without spending a fortune – simply B. Original and make your own.

    Michele Beschen shows how to line up 2x4 or 4x4 lumber for a butcher block and join the pieces with woodworking biscuits for a strong, beautiful surface that's loaded with style. Scroll down to get started.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Figure E
    PHOTO

    Figure F
    PHOTO

    Figure G
    PHOTO

    Figure H
    Butcher Block

    Materials:

    4x4 posts or 2x4 boards
    T-square
    pencil
    biscuit cutter and biscuits
    wood glue
    long pipe clamps
    orbital sander or belt sander
    stain and sealant

    • Determine the size for the counter or table surface and decide whether to use 4x4 posts or 2x4 boards. The 2x4 boards can be used either flat, for a thinner butcher block (figure A), or on edge, for a thicker block using more boards (figure B).

      Note: Always measure the actual boards to determine how many to use for the desired butcher block size. Lumber is always slightly smaller than the name implies: A 4x4, for example, measures about 3-1/2" by 3-1/2".

    • Most lumber has slightly rounded corners, which leave a small indentation between boards. If a perfectly flat surface is desired, use a table saw or planer to square up the edges.

    • Protect the work surface. There will be many glue drips with this project.

    • Lay out the lumber the way it will be on the final surface and line up the edges. Use a T-square to draw three lines down the top of all the boards (figure C); these will make it easier to keep the boards lined up. One line should go down the center, and the others should be about 6" from the ends of the boards.

    • Number the boards so they will be easy to put back in perfect order.

    • Michele Beschen says a biscuit joiner, sometimes called a plate joiner, is her favorite tool for this job. This tool cuts a perfect slot to hold a woodworking biscuit, which gives a much stronger glue joint than gluing two flat wood surfaces together. To use the biscuit joiner, line it up where the biscuit will go, turn on the tool and press the blade into the wood (figure D). Repeat for the opposite piece of wood.

    • Cut slots for three biscuits at each joint. Line up the slots with the lines drawn on the boards to keep them even.

    • Once all the slots are cut, clean out any debris with a small pick.

    • Lay out three bar clamps under the wood, lining them up with the lines on the tops of the boards (figure E).

    • Starting with one edge board, apply wood glue to the board and the biscuit slots. Insert biscuits in the slots (figure F) and butt the boards together (figure G).

    • Glue the other boards together in the same way until all are glued.

    • Tighten the bar clamps to snug the piece together.

    • Install two more bar clamps. Position these clamps on top
      of the work piece, centered between the other clamps (figure H).

    • When the glue is dry, remove the clamps. Sand the top and edges with an orbital sander or belt sander.

    • Finish the surface with stain, varnish or epoxy sealant.

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: