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  • Outdoor Screen Divider
  • Add some charm to your outdoor décor.
    From "B. Original"
    episode DBOR-612


    PHOTO

    Add some charm to your outdoor décor.
    Michele Beschen doesn't even need a room to do cool things with room dividers. Just check out this outdoor screen divider: It's a fun decorative accent, a handy place to hang a few tools and a great cover-up for recycling bins, trash cans or anything else you don't want to show off.

    The project goes together quickly with a few boards and some chicken wire. So get started on your "roomless" divider today!

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    Outdoor Screen Divider

    Materials:

    (4) 1x6 decking boards, 8’ long
    table saw
    safety glasses
    3" decking screws
    hand drill
    (4) 3-1/2" utility hinges
    1 roll of chicken wire, 24" wide
    1 roll of chicken wire, 36" wide
    air stapler or hand stapler
    tin snips or heavy-duty shears

    PHOTO

    Figure A
     PDF
    Click here for the assembly diagram.
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D

    • Download and print out Michele Beschen’s assembly diagram for this screen (figure A).

    • Use a table saw to cut each decking board in half lengthwise (figure B). If you don’t have access to a table saw, the staff at the home improvement store can cut the board at the time of purchase.

    • Use a miter saw or a hand saw to make a 45-degree mitered cut to angle one end of two of the cut boards.

      Safety Alert: Always wear safety glasses and use caution when working with a miter saw or any power tool.

    • Measure 72" from the mitered cut – on the "long" side of the board – and make a mark. Make a 45-degree mitered cut at that point, with the long side of the angle on the same side of the board as at the other end. Repeat for the second board (figure C).

    • Create the top and bottom sides of the panel from the leftover lengths of cut board. Measure and make a mark 23-1/2" down the long side of the board from the miter cut and make a 45-degree cut so that the long side of the miter cut is on the same side of the board as it is at the other end. Repeat for the other cut piece.

    • Lay out the four mitered boards on a work surface and dry-fit the panel together.

    • Wearing safety glasses, use a drill with a 3/16" wood bit to create two pilot holes through the top piece into each side piece. Make similar holes through the bottom piece and into the sides (figure D).

    • Secure the frame together with 3" decking screws.

    • Cut two pieces of cut board to 18-1/8" long with straight cuts at both ends. These will be the center braces.

    • For the first brace, make a mark 29" from each inside corner. Position the brace inside the frame at this point and use a 3/16" drill bit to make two pilot holes on each side, from the outside of the frame into the base (figure E).

      Photo

      Figure E

      Photo

      Figure F


    • Wrap a piece of tape around a 3/8" drill bit, about 1" from the end of the bit. Use this bit to drill into the pilot holes about 1" to countersink the screws (figure F).

    • Secure the braces to the frame with 3" decking screws, countersinking the screws in the pilot holes.

    • For the second brace, make a mark 6" from the bottom of the frame. Drill and widen the pilot holes, then install in the same manner as the first brace.

    • The first panel is complete! Make a second identical to the first using the lengthwise-cut boards.

    • The center panel is built in the same way as the side panels, but is slightly wider. The pieces for he panel should be:

      • (2) 72" side pieces mitered ends
      • (2) 36" top and bottom pieces with mitered ends
      • (2) 30-1/2" braces with straight cuts at both ends

      PHOTO

      Figure G
      PHOTO

      Figure H
      PHOTO

      Figure I

    • Assemble the center panel in the same way as the side panels.

    • Lay out one of the side panels on a work surface. Attach screw eyes to the inside of the top piece to provide additional places to hang items.

    • Unroll about 1’ from the roll of 24" chicken wire and position it at the top of the panel. Aluminum screen or hardware cloth can be used, if desired.

    • Wrap about 1" of the wire mesh over the top and sides of the panel.

    • Use an air stapler or hand stapler to attach the chicken wire to the panels (figure G). Install staples through the intersections of wire about every 3".

    • Work your way down the panel, pulling the wire tight and stapling it to the panel (figure H). At the lowest part of the frame, staple the wire and cut off the excess with wire cutters or heavy-duty shears.

    • Cover the second panel with 24" wire and the center panel with 36" wire.

    • Install 3-1/2" hinges to connect the three panels; positioned at 16" from the top of the screen and 16" from the bottom. Position the hinges so both side panels fold in toward the center. Make sure to install the hinges with the pin at the top. Use screws to secure the hinges (figure I). Trim the chicken wire as needed to accommodate the hinges.

    • Dress up your screen with paint, add more hooks to corral the outdoor clutter and enjoy your outdoor "room" divider.

    • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: